I uploaded the mp3 to the cloud service and all was good for 3 days and then the URL’s that I was using changed and all my podcasts said “file not found” in my mp3 player. So I tried the new URL’s and only about 8 hours later those failed too, it is like it is learning.

So then I tried Google’s documents that now allows you to upload any file format. But I ran in to a problem with Google’s anti-virus message.

Anyone have other options?

Facebook is becoming more evil in terms of giving away your info that you thought was private, watch this video to protect yourself.

Facebook has a great pay off with connecting you to your old friends, but it is now coming with a price – protect yourself.

It is a lot less than I thought since I pretty much live on the internet. I think it is time to start watch more TV shows over the internet.

IPhone Data Usage:

TREO data:

As you can see I don’t use my IPhone that much for actual calls. Look at my roll over minutes from the past year and a half.

Ever since I got digital voice with Comcast (new Arris modem) 80% of time I try to upload large video files (35meg) the modem reboots itself during the upload.

It appears to happen after the initial power boost upload (where it uploads really fast) and when the power boost ends is when it normally reboots itself.

This does not happen when I upload 3 or 4 meg files to Flickr.

modem -> router -> computer

I have not tried removing the router yet, because the router worked fine before I got digital voice.

Error I get in the modem logs is: Power Supply Telemetry Log – BATTERY MISSING
Photos and other info on this problem here.

Update: Problem solved, a Comcast tech came out and provide me with a new and different Arris modem and it fixed the issue.

Vista is the original OS on my computer [d:] and I just installed Win7 on a new hard drive [c:].

I am done with my Vista drive and would like to remove it or use it as another backup drive but I can’t remove it until the new c: drive has the System, Active status.

I posted this question in the forums and several people came up with a great idea of:

just place the W7 install DVD into the CD, boot from it and have it REPAIR the BOOT, and all will be OK from there…

So I gave it a try here is what I did (in order).

Below I disconnected the Vista drive and tried to boot from the Windows 7 DVD:

But for some reason it would let me and I kept getting this message.

So then I reconnected the Vista drive and started over, you can see the additional vista drive below (Hitachi):

Then it wanted to run the OS from the hard drives because I was too slow clicking on any key to boot from the DVD.

Above you can see I was finally successful booting from the DVD and I clicked Next.

Above you can see I then clicked on “Repair your Computer”.

Above you can see it started searching for Window installs.

Above you can see it found both and I selected Windows 7 to fix.

Above you can see I selected “Startup Repair” for the Windows 7 drive.

As you can see above it could not detect any problems with the install.

As you can see above using Disk Management that I was not successful moving System and Active attributes over to the new c: Windows 7 drive. It appears that K: was created for the DVD install.

Am I doing something wrong?

Update: I gave up because the registry got serious f%cked up so I started from the beginning and reinstalled Win7 clean.

STEP 1:

Download MySQL Admin (free) Just Google the download.

STEP 2:

Set up your connection info within MySQL admin (easy).

STEP 3:

Create a backup project (also easy).

Wait about 5 seconds for the connection to the DB when you click on the lower left box to see all the tables appear, see below:

STEP 4:

Once you have the backup set up the way you like it, select the save button.

STEP 5:

TRICKY part! Do not use the password from yourDB connection, use it from your Windows account, I verified this works on Windows 7 as well (works on Vista too). You need to have a password assigned to your Windows account for this to work.

Notice that it doesn’t matter if you use the path or not, they both work.

Step 6:

You do not need to set anything up in the Windows Task Scheduler at all! Do not create a task here, MySQL will do this for you. I have wasted much time on this step.

Once you have clicked OK above and then you open Windows Task Scheduler you can now see your new scheduled task appear when you click on the Task Scheduler Library folder on the left side.

As you add more schedules you can just right click and hit refresh the library folder to see the new ones appear.

Basically it works but little things like it does not resize correctly when you reopen it and other minor items like that.

Oops, I spoke too soon. After it asked me to activate the product it the resize works fine now.

Vista is the original OS on my computer [d:] and I just installed Win7 on a new hard drive [c:].

I am done with my Vista drive and would like to remove it or use it as another backup drive but I can’t remove it until the new [ c:] drive has the System, Active status.

How can I move the “System, Active” status to the new [c:] Windows 7 drive?

When the Vista drive is disconnected I get the following message on boot up:

Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot
media in selected boot device

This is what Windows Disk Management looks like when I boot to the Vista drive:

I do backups of everything except my video drive because it is too big. So I purchased SpinRite, because I listen to Steve Gibson on Security Now and I have heard good success stories from the show.

I downloaded it off the website and created a CR-R of the ISO. I forgot that simply copying the ISO file on to the drive wouldn’t work so I use a freeware tool from http://www.nbxsoft.com/ “Free Create-Burn ISO Image” to create the ISO image.

I tried booting from the CD drive (actually a DVD drive) and the FreeDOS would come up on the screen (see below) but that is as far as it would go and then I would see a bunch of weird letters on the screen after about 4 minutes after the InitDisk command.

I thought I made a bad ISO, so I created another one but this time on a DVD+R. But I got the same result as pictured above.

So then I tried the 2nd ISO disk in my wife’s HP computer and it ran SpinRite just fine.

So I know I created the CD correctly, but what do I do now? Do I try a USB drive next?

UPDATE 1: Since I knew my wife’s computer worked I moved the bad drive over to her computer and now I have it scanning. It says it will be done in 24 hours so I will let you know what I find out then. I have the hard drive docked in my docking station connected by USB so it might be running slower than with SATA.

But I would still like to getting it working on my other machine.

UPDATE 2:

SpinRite had the following issue, what do I do now? About 7% of the way through (on level 2) the follow message. Division Overflow Error!

The drive is a Seagate ST31000340AS. Also I am running the latest version of SpinRite I downloaded yesterday.

This is the response I got from Greg at GRC:

Similar issue relating to FreeDOS.

So, you will need to create a MS-DOS boot diskette instead.

Making a boot CD . . .

If you have a CD-R drive, you can get an ISO image of a “Windows 98 SE Boot CD” here . . .

<http://www.allbootdisks.com/downloads/ISO/AllBootDisks_ISO_Image_Downloads25/Win98_bootdisk.iso>

Once created, boot with the above CD and then once at the DOS prompt
put in the SpinRite CD and type   spinrite   at the DOS prompt to
start SpinRite manually.

The A: prompt is a pseudo prompt.  During the boot process, just above the A: prompt, there is probably a listing for the CD-ROM drives.  Which ever letter it shows (in my case it shows F:), that is the drive you need to switch to first, then put in the SpinRite CD and type SpinRite at that prompt.

Update 3: Even after unsuccessfully running SpinRite it appears the 1TB drive is working (not making noises and locking up the computer) and I am half way finished copying over the files to the new drive.

I called Seagate and they told me I could send them the defective drive that I purchased last Dec 08 for $179 to get a new replacement.

This is what I have been waiting for!

I am so tried of paying Comcast $15/month for their DVR for HD and recording. Now I can get a computer with Windows 7 and put a cablecard multi-tuner inside and record multiple shows in HD and say screw you Comcast to the high rental fee.

The cable card has very little use, but with this news I would think that the cable card will increase in numbers.

I will probably wait a few more months for the cost of these cards to come down and figure out how in install all of it.